The last post... continued!

OK, I posted the last one as is, just in case we have a power cut and I lose it all. So, make another chai (which incidentally is served very sweet here, and which I'm developing a taste for) and read on.

The next day was Wednesday (I know, this is taking a long time to tell!). We rose for a sightseeing tour at 10. I had a mini-panic as I couldn't find my camera (turns out it was under a book or two). However, I missed out photographing the morning's sites (though others did, so I'll get hold of some photos for you all). We went first to the governmental buildings, including President's House (which is huge, and far nicer than 10 Downing St.), then on to India Gate (a WWII memorial in the style of Thiepval). We also saw our first snake charmer! One of us got ripped off for about Rs150 for a photo of him! They should only get about Rs10-20 for it, but they ask tourists for about Rs300-400, because most don't understand the actually value of money here, instead they think in terms of their own currency.

For lunch I had a cheap masala dosa in a tourist market. Masala dosa is a crepe-like pancake with a spicy potato filling (very nice). We saw some British tourists doing their utmost to give our country a bad name. They were trying to get a packet of crisps but the shoppy didn't understand what they wanted. They were f-ing and blinding at him, and when we tried to help with our newly learnt Hindi, we were spurned with "he should understand what I f-ing want when I f-ing point at it". On the plus side, the shoppie ripped them off for about Rs100 (=1.25 pounds), which we all agreed they deserved, and was a result of their own ignorance and lack of any respect.

Next was a by-invitation trip to the British High Commission (oh yes, we are that important). This set off a spate of Aussie-baiting and mock over-patriotism. I should note that this was the first time I'd seen alcohol in India (they had it at the BHC bar). We got a talk from the commissioner's right-hand lady about their role and our safety, as well as India in general and so on. It was very pleasant. The place is guarded by Nepalese Gurkas who are armed with kukri, partially ceremonial knives which they use for everything from cutting up fruit to throwing at people.

After that we went back to the hostel and finalised our travel details. We then went off to the markets again. It turned out the people I was with didn't know where they were going (I was just tagging along for something to do) so they made the fatal mistake of taking the autorickshaw driver's recommendation. (A quick note on the rickshaws, they aren't the bicycle powered ones we usually think of, they are motorbikes with a covered bit on them that weave in and out of traffic at will). The driver took us off to a crap, overpriced tourist trap market, then when we told them it wasn't what we wanted, took us to Janpath (which was where we wanted to be) and charged us about Rs50 for a journey we could easily walked (had we but known). It was obvious that this guy was on commission from the overpriced emporium to bring tourists there.

We walked around Janpath and I struck unlucky again (bah). Some guys attempted the 'shit on the shoe' scam - which I imagine you can work out what it is. One guy throws shit on your shoe, then his friend (who comes over as a friendly stranger) points it out to you, then mentions that he is - coincidentally enough - a shoe cleaner! The luck of it! He then cleans your shoe and charges a ridiculous price for a half-arsed job. Unluckily for them, I was aware of the scam, so I just scrapped it off on the railings, instead of getting a polish. They aren't, I hear, even real shoe cleaners; the proper ones have a large set up across the pavement and charge only about Rs25 (whereas these guys charge loads and have a portable kit so they can make a run for it). I was some less fortunate tourists already in their clutches.

At dinner (more curry, different again, and still fairly good stuff) I chatted with the Aussies some more; it turns out that some of them have never seen snow before. Which is weird for us, but then they think it's odd that I've never seen a wild snake before, or anything like that. One girl told a story of how there was a snake in the shower with her once, and she accidentally mistook it for the shower head. Nice, it was apparently a close shave to getting beaten that time around. We were back on the balcony that night, chilling out, talking, playing some cheat and shithead, and saying our goodbyes to those leaving early the next day. The Becky and Loz relationship flourished more, but they had to split off to go to their different places. Cute, but sad. (I don't mean to sound sarcastic there, even though I do).

Thursday! (Nearly done, honest!) I had a lie-in (till 9.10), and woke to find John already gone on the train to Kalka (he's in a monastery in Simla). The handful of us left behind did our packing and then went off to Raj Ghat, where Mahatma Gandhi's memorial is (along with those of other important India political figures, such as Indira Gandhi and Rajiv Gandhi). Raj Ghat is a large park area with all these memorials, but very little shade. It was very hot this day, but worth it I reckon. We got a rickshaw ride there (four in a rickshaw, technically illegal, but the Delhi traffic police seem not to care about anything!) in what was a fairly interesting ride. I sat on Loz (who ended up with a dead leg, though my ride was hardly anymore comfortable), and the driver's first route turned out to be closed. So, he turned around and drove back part of the way we'd come. Without changing lanes. Into the oncoming traffic. And we weren't the only ones. But that's Indian roads for you! The ride back was similarly fun. The driver was very inventive in his driving, squeezing into spaces he didn't fit, and cutting up everyone. The traffic police again saw all this (dangerous driving, ignoring the lanes and the correct side of the road, jumping lights, four in the rickshaw, etc., etc.) but decided it was too hot to do anything (or something like that).

At the YMCA we had a lunch of chips and roti (very Indian, I know!) then checked out. Turns out that the checkout time was noon (not 4pm) and the guys at the YMCA wanted an extra Rs800 or so. After a quick phone call to Rekha, she sorted it out and told us that they go through this thing pretty much every year, and not to worry about it. Then it was off to the bus stop and the bus ride to Dharamsala. The station was a little confusing, but it turned out that I guy comes and tells you when the bus arrives and then takes you down to the place it is parked.

I will post again in a little while, but it's lunchtime now, and I want to eat with the monks for the first time, so next post you have the delights of the Delhi->Dharmasala bus ride, McLeod Ganj and the introduction to Tashi Jong to look forward to! Until then, goodbye all, and I hope you are all well!