Lama Daycare

So here I am again, fresh from a close encounter of the mass transit kind, to tell you how life goes in India. I nearly missed the bus down to Paprola, but, unwilling to wait an extra 20 minutes or so, I thought I'd try what the Indians do and get on the bus as it was moving. I think, however, that they get on buses moving slower than mine did. I got on alright, and held on too, but my arm will bear the evidence of my Indiana Jones-like daring for the next couple of days.

Anyway, transportational mishaps aside, it's time to start where I finished last time. After all that jazz, I met Mike in Paprola, and we had dinner at Davat Restaurant (the butter chicken was pretty damn good). We got a taxi home and had a quiet evening in until, enter Tashi. We had been warned about him in our 'welcome to Tashi Jong' card from one of the last GAPpers, Bharaat. Basically, Tashi is a harmless druggy-cum-thief (to fund the habit). Mike, not realising who it was at first, and forgetting Bharaat's other rule (no locals in your room, only monks), let him in. We were lucky, I think, that Ngawang (mentioned a few times earlier) from the incense factory arrived at almost exactly the same time. Whilst Tashi claimed to be Sonam, Ngawang warned us about him (though we had, at this point, worked him out - the continuous puffing from a large crisp packet followed by him going 'ahhhh' and rolling back his eyes gave it away). Tashi claimed he knew us to Ngawang (who was having none of it). So, whilst Mike helped Ngawang with his email, I watched Tashi eying up Mike's wallet. I had to save said wallet from Tashi's sneaky movements (flicking it behind him to make it easier to pinch), whilst at the same time trying to ignore the solvent fumes coming off him. Ngawang got rid of him in the end, but I don't think Mike will be making the same mistake again.

As a coda to this fun adventure, Tashi came back later and asked to borrow some money. Ha, ha, ha. No.

After that exciting evening, I was ready for some teaching the next day, and so, predictably, it was puja time again! Which meant no classes that day (Friday), at least for me. In the morning, a litter of little lamas came to our room to say hello. I was, I must admit, still asleep, so Mike looked after them, before the nurse told us (I made a special effort to wake up) off for playing ball games indoors. The rest of the morning was fairly uneventful and, after lunch of tingmo and potato, we went down to Paprola.

We went to play snooker (the place in TJ was shut) at a hall in Paprola. The place was a little bit of a dump, but it was alright. On one side was a wall-length open window, to give you space to use the cue. We first played some pool on a sloping, tiny table, using a stumpy little cue. I won one (he potted the black early, then went on to win when we replaced it), lost one. We then played snooker on the main table, which was very good and had, unlike at TJ, straight cues with working tips. The four owners sat and watched our match, giving Mike (who was losing) lots of tips and help. All to no avail, as my awesome skill won out (by 14 points).

After getting the bus back, Mike went off to do a bit of work at the incense factory, whilst I did very little. I went up to join them at five to go for a walk. The three of us (Mike, Ngawang and I) went up the mountain (a different way to the way I've mentioned before) which was really nice and peaceful. We were followed for a bit, of course, by a crowd of Indian kids. We were fairly lucky, as it was a clear day, so we got to see some snow-topped mountains as a backdrop to the greenery of the Tashi Jong hills.

I got a phone call from Corinne, who is at Happy Days school a few hours South of Delhi with Becky. Their lot, I must say, is very different from ours. Very different. For a start, it's at a school and not a monastery. They have full days of teaching (8.30 til 5) six days a week, and no holidays or pujas to deal with. On the other hand, the two of them live in a 3 bedroom, 3 bathroom house with a servant or two and separate dining room, living room and kitchen. What luxury, ey?

When we got back to TJ, all the restaurants were shut, so Ngawang borrowed (actually borrowed, not "borrowed") a car and drove us down to Davat's. The drive was rather fun, as he drove rather fast (though not as hair-raisingly as Delhi rickshaw drivers). He started off by mounting the concrete wall next to the car, then, when reversing, rolling forwards into (and hitting) a pillar before going backwards. It sounds much like a trip with Laurence, but without seatbelts (not a standard feature in Indian cars). At the restaurant, I had sweet 'n' sour chicken, which was good, and we talked about all sorts (caste in Nepal and India, Muslims, etc.). The drive back was uneventful and we went to sleep not long after that.

The next day was Saturday, and I got up before half eight, in expectation of the siege of lamas. A few of them did, as expected, come and wandered round the room asking 'sir, sir what's this?' and 'sir, sir, how many rupees?' for everything. You have to imagine this (especially the 'sir, sir' bit, which is how they address us) being said really earnestly, as if it would spell the end of the world if we didn't pay attention. As it was a cool day, some monks were wearing jumpers and fleeces, which, of course, had to be in monk colours (orange, red, yellow).

Much of the afternoon was spent hanging out with the monks. I learnt to play a game called carambole, which is a bit like billiards on a small table, where you flick counters into the pockets. I was fairly terrible at it, whilst a couple of the monks were pretty amazing, so I got ruthlessly thrashed at it. I went for dinner, which was noodles, and ate with Dechen and a couple of other monks in his room. The room was fairly basic, and not too dissimilar to Jimmey's (described earlier), though a little gloomier feeling. Two little/middle sized lamas are in a room with one bigger lama in a connecting room (to look after them, I assume).

That evening was basically a blur of lamas. They came in and we played cards, carambole, guitar and all that kind of thing. Apparently Tashi was hanging around outside (one of my advanced guys warned me as Ngawang had), but he didn't bother us. After they went, we went to the snooker hall where I lost a match. We then went with Dechen to watch the T20 match between India and Australia. It was pretty good to watch, with India smashing sixes and fours all over. I left after India's innings was over and went to sleep. India, of course, won. More to come about cricket.

I spent Sunday feeling like a cross between a child minder and a zoo keeper. It was a holiday, as all Sundays are, for the lamas. Dechen came in the morning, and I had breakfast of an omlette at the restaurant. After lunch (tingmo and cabbage) which I didn't eat (there's something about a plateful of steamed cabbage that can put off even the bravest of eaters), the monks came. I played carambole and catch. They played with my phone, Mike's phone, his laptop (solitaire was as mesmerising for them as it is for office workers and my Dad), his guitar, etc., etc. I watched a bit of TV (when the power came back) with two of them, before the left and I talked with Ngawang from the Institute (Ngawang is a ridiculously common name amongst the monks). I got a plate of chowmein (very good). I went back to the room, picking up a few lamas on the way.

We went to lunch (Mike fled to Paprola) and had rice and dhal (they had to make up for the cabbage somehow!) before returning to our room. There, our gathering of three or four monks quickly ballooned into maybe ten or fifteen. There were monks on mobiles, monks on guitar, monks outside playing football in the corridor, monks playing cards, monks playing carambole, etc., etc.. It was a bit on the mental side, and Mike was, needless to say, surprised when he got back. The nurse told off the footballers again (they tried to run and hide, but she found them), whilst I played a bit of carambole. There is one little little lama (maybe 6) who has, we think, got ADHD (he certainly acts like it). I involved him in the game, which he enjoyed despite his lack of accuracy (I'm not sure if he hit any of the counters, though he did get one of the other players). It was all really good fun, though there was a mass exodus at 8pm, which I guess must have been bedtime for the younger ones. We eventually had some peace at the end of the day.

The next day saw the start of my second class (the absolute beginner lamas) - which is good fun. There are only (at the moment) three of them, including the ADHD kid mentioned earlier. I've discovered the power of ball games in getting them excited. If you throw a ball to them they'll do anything - even try to use some English! My other lesson with the big lamas went well too, though I had to give out some disapproving looks to the people who didn't do their homework (he handed it in next lesson so I guess it worked).

That evening, in a bid to top the night before, threw up the Twenty 20 World Cup final. And what a final! India vs. Pakistan - it was a so perfect a setting that you wouldn't believe it if it wasn't true. Their last match had ended in a draw and a bowl-out (which India won). Add to this the tension there always is between the two nations. Then add to this that it was the inaugural T20 World Cup. Then add to this the absolute cricket mania of India. Now you have a small idea of the atmosphere surrounding the match.

Ngawang (from the factory) came running at 5 to fetch me to watch the match, and I went to the Ricsam restaurant to watch it. I had a very goo chowmein and stayed until they closed, before going to the other restaurant, which was open, had the cricket on the TV as well, and was packed with Institute monks. India opened the batting fairly weakly, with the best batters falling, but then played well in the last couple of overs to rack up some vital runs. Pakistan then came out fairly well, but in the middle of their innings the wickets began to fall. It got to the last over, 3rd ball, Pakistan were 5 runs away from winning, with only one wicket left. It was ridiculously tense. The batter went for a do or die move and tried to hit it for six behind him, but it went up and came down into the waiting hands of (I think) RP Singh. The monks went wild! Lots of hugging, handshaking, hi5s, cheering, etc.. They were overjoyed, with the exception of the one lone Pakistani monk. Poor guy!

This was the first time I've watched a full (albeit T20) cricket match, and I actually enjoyed it. The people of India went mental too. We switched over to a news channel, where the staff had abandoned their posts and were all in front of the camera dancing away to the drums. And they went on for at least ten minutes! Today in Paprola, I saw a parade of people on motorbikes and in jeeps waving Indian flags and beating drums, I assume in celebration of the win.

Well. Today was fairly normal. I'm getting into a routine at Tashi Jong. I wake up sometime between 8 and 9, go for a shower, then breakfast at the restaurant. I teach the little lamas at 10.30am, then go for lunch at 12. After lunch I play table tennis, badminton and frisbee with the lamas on the field by the school, before going back to my room at 1pm. I have a lesson with the big lamas at 2pm until 3pm, then, starting tomorrow, I am teaching a local lady for an hour. After that, I have free time to spend as I choose. And to plan my next lessons, and mark homework, etc.. I'm having a really great time now that I'm more settled at Tashi Jong. I look forward to hearing from you all, about uni, and what ever else you may be doing. So, email me sometime!

Until next time, tashi delek!